Donna Karan’s designs have always been aimed at the independent woman who negotiates her way through the jungle of contemporary urban life. In Karan’s terrific Spring collection, the designer took that idea literally, showing a range of great clothes that could have come from the closet of a sexy Amazon.
Windblown, and gleaming with iridescent bronzer, the models stalked on the runway in gorgeous nutty brown leathers that were cut in variations on the bomber/motorcycle style; worn over coppery silk jersey pieces; and stitched into leather “belts” big enough to double as miniskirts (on the models, anyway). Karan used silk jersey, one of her favorite fabrics, in everything from asymmetrical fitted dresses to a charming ruched retro “swim dress” (which returned later, paired with a long skirt, for evening), all in desert tones of peachy terra cotta, bone, and papery pale green.
Karan is nothing if not versatile. After the savage chic of her opening looks, she switched effortlessly to cityfied sophistication: fitted jackets in crinkly viscose, tobacco-colored silk tweed made into a suit and a slim coat, and a lovely ivory blouse with a deep ruffled collar, all accented with artisanal but feminine details like little drawstring pockets, pintucking, and frayed grosgrain ribbon. She closed with a series of ethereal dresses and gowns, some scattered with oxidized sequins, others woven from bands of fluttering shredded chiffon. Vibrant, sensuous, and wearable, it made for a celebratory closing chapter to Fashion Week.
