Although milliner-turned-designer James Coviello moved his show to the tents this season, he remained true to his romantic, vintage-y aesthetic. Inspired by a trip to Switzerland, the designer showed his "1920s Alpine/Edwardian shooting party" collection to a front row that included longtime friend Anna Sui as well as his affenpinscher, Francis.
True to form, Coviello built his presentation around knitwear, showcasing handcraft rather than trends and emphasizing the personal, small-scale nature of the label. Preppy, colorful sweaters, embellished with hearts and rhinestone-eyed reindeers, had a shrunk-in-the-washer fit and were paired with cargo pants in Pendleton wool plaids, printed velvets and denim, augmented with bondage-like straps. Femininity and sportiness played off each other in plaid suits with flouncy skirts, while floaty chiffon and lace dresses exuded old-time charm. A series of vests and jackets with folkloric embroidery displayed the handiwork for which Coviello is known, while the accessories—pointy lace-up and L.L. Bean boots—completed the casual, woodsy mood set by the antler chandeliers hung over the runway.
