For fall, Karl Lagerfeld showed graphic, rechopped teeny-weeny Chanel suits that, he said, were inspired by the work of Russian constructivist painter Kasimir Malevich. Girls won’t need an art-history class to get the idea, though: it’s all about a short double-layered A-line skirt (no longer than fingertip length), a minute tight-sleeved shrunken jacket, black blocked against white and a whole lot of funky leg action.
Starting from that basis, Lagerfeld mixed things up with his usual polymath flair. The addition of slick black leather leg warmers and gauntlets meant the suit came over a bit biker chic; with white boots, it said space-age; and when he let a little lace peep from the pelmet, the tiny two-piece looked fully in touch with fall’s pretty femininity.
The decorative vibe ran through the collection: purple tweed was edged with ruffles, a pastel suit was outlined with furry loops of wool, and tougher plaited leather pieces were connected with fragile zones of tulle. Details took the form of white rabbit-fur collars embedded with white jet, oversize silver chains studded with porcelain beads, high boots and a slew of puns on the tools of the trade—exposed zippers, necklaces made of huge snaps, and spirals of hooks and eyes winding around dresses.
In the middle of all this, Lagerfeld staged a ski moment for the house's entire family, sending out Pat Cleveland with her children, Anna and Noel Van Ravenstein, in double-C down jackets and boots. In other words, all the usual playfulness of Chanel ready-to-wear was there, done with a light-handed touch that underscored Coco's legacy of flexibility—and fun— in the reign of King Karl.
