Anne Klein designer Charles Nolan picked up the early-’60s mood that’s been sweeping through the collections this week, citing references from Jackie Kennedy to Antonioni to the house’s own founding designer.
For one thing, that meant hemlines zoomed well above the knee; fully three quarters of the looks Nolan sent out were minis, from swingy kilts to leather A-line looks to sporty, rugby-striped versions. He paired them with slim ribbed turtlenecks, popcorn-bedecked sweaters, crisp shirts and silky geometric-print blouses. There were a few pantsuits with trim, short jackets topping slim, tab-waisted trousers. While minis are generally aimed at the younger set, Nolan’s restrained colors made the collection mature: plummy browns, black, ivory, white, navy and gray, with jolts of orange and blue. And he made sure to give his grown-up customer a bit of luxe, via combinations like a black mink anorak worn over a black leather mini.
For evening, Nolan moved his inspiration back even farther, to the flapper era. He showed short, beaded and sequined shifts, one topped with a pretty ivory satin evening coat. How short his customer will really go, of course, remains to be seen. But should she decide to raise high her hemlines, Anne Klein gives her an adult alternative.
