The look Vogue favored from Martin Margiela’s Spring 2002 collection for Hermès was crisp and conservative. “British Empire spic-and-span” is how the magazine described the white cotton shirt, canvas skirt, and canvas and leather riding boots Steven Meisel photographed on Karolina Kurkova.
But with the exception of those boots, this collection was not at all horsey—camp shirts and khakis evoking vast Saharan prairies rather than paddocks. Adding an urban accent to the proceedings were the wide black leather bandeaux that kept the models’ hair away from their faces.