Showing in New York for the first time, Londoner Matthew Williamson presented a collection titled "Kaleidescape" that arrived just like a Gypsy caravan might: embellished to the max and bursting with color.
Shocking, tropical hues of rose, peach, yellow and turquoise brightened trenchcoats, minis and pants—low-slung and tapered, or wide-waled and bell-bottomed—while shredded chiffon skirts were swirling patchworks of pattern and hue. Williamson's talisman this season was the number five (marking the number of years he's been in business), which was patched onto pockets, bags, trenches and military-style jackets. The designer's favorite Eastern motifs, like paisleys and abstract florals, made their way onto the beautiful hand-embroidered coat worn by Alek Wek and the chiffon dresses (really strapless saris) that closed the evening. Less successful were his continuing experiments with activewear, especially this season's Airtex dresses.
Williamson's pretty, if somewhat predictable, show included pieces that should appeal to both his established clientele and to younger (albeit deep-pocketed) customers. It will be interesting to see if he can develop a new audience by winning over typically black-clad New Yorkers.
