Jeremy Scott's New York debut ended fashion week with a jolt of high energy and—in a week of monochromatic, subdued tones—vivid color.
The Missouri-born designer, who came to fame in Paris before relocating to Los Angeles, chose New York to show his largest—and most commercially viable—collections to date. And while Scott may not be ready for prime time, he certainly entertained a jaded audience.
Scott opened with a series of very mini coats and dresses in amped-up sherbet tones, all infused with his Grace Jones–meets–Judy Jetson spirit (read: sky-high collars and exaggerated, cartoonish shoulder treatments). While the silhouettes were futuristic, the fabrics were resolutely traditional: wool felt, leather and soft jersey. One coat, a sheared mink wrap shown on an otherwise naked model, was basically a furry fig leaf. And while they were wacky, the clothes were well constructed: The manufacture was overseen by a former employee of the notoriously picky designer James Galanos.
Scott's tongue-in-cheek attitude was very apparent, but he's also showing a new maturity as a designer. After the far-out coats, he showed a group of knit dresses that were eminently wearable. But those who lean to the left of fashion center shouldn't worry that Scott, who used to end his shows with a cry of "Vive l'avant garde!" has sold out. He ended the presentation with a group of elaborately constructed dresses designed to resemble New York City skyscrapers. If Björk needs something to wear to the Oscars, she need look no further.
