Helmut Lang’s minimal take on power dressing has become a de facto uniform for the artsy executive set—the kind of customers who need to look cool but serious while hopping time zones and board meetings. His Fall collection, done primarily in black and white, is sure to keep them happy.
Lang always cuts a mean jacket, and this season’s version has a slightly built-up shoulder and narrower waist, in keeping with the changing silhouette. (He kept the pants long and lean.) Hoods were in plentiful supply, some on his well-known narrow-fitting coats and others on soft, oversized sweaters. Slashed and layered jersey pieces, meanwhile, added a tougher edge to the looks. The best group was a series of intricately twisted takes on fishermen’s sweaters, with oversized cables and random slashes, done in black or white chunky wool.
A lot of the collection felt familiar, and there were some odd pieces, like metallic pleated skirts, that might not fly past the occasional gallery opening. But Lang’s more straightforward looks will certainly satisfy his loyal following.
