In her skinny, skinny satin pants, vicious pointy ankle-strapped heels, tousled hair and falling-off-the-shoulder tops, the Gucci rock-chick is here stomping on stage for her come-back gig. And why not? When Tom Ford cut his smash-hits for Gucci in the mid-90s, they were for a woman with a fearlessly rockin’ attitude and a taste for dangerous luxe. Now she’s back with an even bigger, richer lineup of killer clothes to flaunt.
Ford lavishes the luxury in new larger volumes that run from a chunky black knit with fur embedded in the seams to zigzag jacquard kimono jackets pulled in with obi belts, and a black satin blouson jacket worn with a sexy, tight pencil skirt. There are lean pants cut with a natural waist and so long they crumple at the ankle, or leg-lengthening flares that flow over the foot. The outerwear pieces, like big raincoats and oversize “boyfriend” jackets, get a touch of glam with satin trim.
Ford lists his sources as the Hollywood of the ’20s and ’30s, a touch of Goth and an antique kimono collected on a trip to Japan, but his own obsession comes through in the intense details. “This is the most worked collection I’ve ever done at Gucci,” he said. “Women are only buying amazing items now. No one’s buying anything basic.”
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