Severity plus sensuality in one silhouette—that’s the essence of Chanel couture for winter. Karl Lagerfeld cut a rigorous new shape for the iconic Chanel jacket, a line drawn from a high Edwardian collar, through a strong, slightly puffed shoulder, skinny arms and the narrowest waist possible. Pair that with a skirt that stays close to the hips, breaks into a swirl to the knee and is finished with deep ruffles of spangled tulle at the hem, and you have the main message.
The buttoned-up, almost equestrian look of the jackets, some finished with immaculate high white pique collars, cuffs and bow ties, worked in perfect counterpoint with the accessories: seamed fishnet tights, shoes clasped at the ankle with gold beads that swished like charm bracelets, and beaded jewelry threaded into the piled-up hairdos. For evening, Lagerfeld exploited the fairy-fingered expertise of the Chanel couture atelier to the max, from a standout gold sequin flapper dress to a lighter-than-air, lace-inserted strappy little black number.
In what is shaping up as a good season for the frill and the ruffle, Lagerfeld set a fine example by pairing embellished skirts with plainer tops. These were the finer points the tiny audience were privileged to observe up close, in the traditional private couture manner, at Chanel headquarters at the Rue Cambon. It was also a chance to get a first viewing of the designer’s makeover of Coco’s couture salon, which—like most of his collection—is executed strictly in black and white, with the glamorous sparkle of Baccarat crystal chandeliers overhead.
