Belgians might not be familiar with the Morton Salt Girl, but they know very well the iconic yellow cire raincoat that inspired this collection. Olivier Theyskens came up with the idea of translating it into leather and from there he became swept up in a maritime theme that extended even to the set: models walked on mussel shells in shoes covered in black sand. Belgian shrimp farmers, safety boats, and life preservers were all worked into this collection, which the designer describes as all “an ode to the Belgian seaside.”
Clicking through the looks, what jumps out is how Theyskens, who was known for his dark Romanticism, applied athletic and utilitarian touches throughout his ship-shape line-up.