“Hermès is unique. Unique in Paris and unique in the world,” noted Vogue in a 1982 article that called out the “unmistakable smell of leather—the best quality of leather” in the company’s stores. Margiela made much use of the house’s signature material for Fall 1999, cutting it into tunics and working shearling into supple coats to slip on over layered knits. (One of Gisele Bündchen’s first appearances in Vogue was in one of these luxury toppers.) Bathrobe coats, comfy stoles, and drawstring pants added further elements of ease.
The collection was rendered in a soothing, light palette of ivory, mushroom, and ash gray, and was accessorized with clochette key-holder necklaces. According to Kaat Debo in “Margiela: The Hermès Years,” the clochettes were adapted from the fob on the Kelly bag and they couldn’t but have pleased company head Jean-Louis Dumas who, in 2002, told Vogue: “The idea is always the same at Hermès, to make tradition live by shaking it up.”
