“When not worn these pieces are totally flat,” read the words at the back of a stage on which men in white lab coats presented clothing on hangers as if at an auction. A video showing the garments on models also played. In 1990, fascinated with proportions, Margiela had reproduced a doll’s wardrobe in adult sizes. The challenge for Spring ’98 involved geometry, specifically how to make two-dimensional garments that would lie perfectly flat when not on a three-dimensional body. Pictured in the photo above: a designer version of the everyday plastic grocery sack, which Margiela had already transformed into a top at the very beginning of his career.
