“I’m moving more into the reality of things,” Gianni Versace said of his Fall 1997 collection. “It’s time to step back and show clothes.” The opening looks—abbreviated black leather toppers paired with black leather boots—immediately signaled that the dreamy romanticism of his Spring ’97 season was gone. Though hemlines were high and some necklines were low, with unexpected cut-outs here and there, it was easy to imagine many of these pieces fitting into a working woman’s wardrobe. Colorful pieced shifts were at once playful yet neat; cashmere cardigans with dyed fox collars were luxurious but not OTT.
In an interview, Versace explained his new mellow mood: “I think our role as designers has changed,” he stated. “In the ’80s, I show[ed] myself. Now, I want to show clothing. We all want more quality in our life; I’m human, too.” If Versace increasingly had his feet on the ground, his heart still beat for fantasy and fun, especially when it came to evening. For after dark, he showed sparkly dresses, some draped with Lurex shine, others with rhinestones and glitter, and one red-hot Le Smoking.
