Tailoring enables deconstruction, which reveals the beautiful bones of fashion. Both are essential aspects of Rei Kawakubo’s work. For Spring 1995 the designer considered the sexual politics of tailoring in a show titled “Transcending Gender.” “Spiritually, there are no more differences between men and women,” Kawakubo said post-show. “What is important is being human.”
Still, it’s the frisson of seeing a woman in a man’s clothes that drove this show. The models projected a vintage beauty, sporting spit curls and deep red lips, along with (deconstructed) suits and ties, some with a Jazz Age silhouette and swagger. As the show progressed, Kawakubo added ruffles to the mix, and layered dresses under suits for a striking finale series of Le Smokings.
