In contrast to the single-minded focus of Rei Kawakubo’s collection from the previous year, “Synergy,” Spring 1994’s “Eccentric” was more of a grab bag, with the designer exploring divergent themes, from straight-up tailoring, to wisps of empire dresses. For accessories, there were face-obscuring feather toppers, and either high-top sneakers or lug-soled Mary Janes for the feet.
The models’ white-painted hair gave them the look of classic sculptures. As for their dresses, they seemed to nod to those democratic rebel youths of France circa the 1790s, the Incroyables (Unbelievables) and their female counterparts, the Merveilleuses (Marvelous Ones). As anyone who followed fashion in the ’80s would know (they were also a favorite reference of John Galliano), the Incroyables and Merveilleuses snubbed their noses at convention and had fun with clothes, while using them to make political statements. Rule breakers, in other words, much like Kawakubo herself.
