Romance isn’t the first thing that comes to mind when Martin Margiela’s name is mentioned, but it was abundantly present in this Spring ’93 show, which paired minimalism with Victoriana. There were petticoat-style skirts, galloon-trimmed jackets, and sprigs of greenery tied and hung like pendants around the neck or affixed with tape to models including Cecilia Chancellor, Emma Balfour, and—wait for it—a young Kate Moss. As pretty as the collection was, it was mayhem outside. Margiela scheduled two 8:30 p.m. shows at opposite ends of Montmartre Cemetery. At one, the clothes and invitation were black, at the other, white. Show up to the wrong show and you were denied entrance, unless, that is, you were Rei Kawakubo.
