Ralph Lauren is thinking pink for resort. Not Barbie pink, which is all over this season’s collections, with the Margot Robbie film finally hitting theaters next month, but ballerina pink.
Like Barbiecore, balletcore is another popular TikTok trend, but it’s safe to say that Lauren’s design instincts aren’t informed by that social media platform. He has 50 years of archives to pull from when he’s searching for inspiration. Make that 55. Lauren celebrated his brand’s semicentennial five years ago this September, which makes you wonder if he has something big planned for New York Fashion Week.
The collection is recognizably Ralph, with its emphasis on classic all-American tailoring. It opens with a double-breasted pantsuit in ballerina pink with a crewneck sweater to match. Later, there’s a masculine-cut coat with exaggerated peaked lapels in the same soft shade; it’s an unlikely marriage, but it works, as does the tweed blazer a few looks on that he paired with a short skirt embellished with feathers.
Dancers’ garb informs the cut of a wrap sweater and its matching spaghetti strap slip, as well as a knit dress with a pleated skirt and a trompe l’oeil strappy neckline, while tulle (the stuff of tutus) is ombré dyed and sewn in tiers for a pretty party dress. Long dresses are as sleek as a leotard.
The athleticism of the collection is balanced by an emphasis on artisanal work, a recurring theme of Lauren’s recent outings. The frock coat in look 16 has been elaborately antiqued so that it seems like it’s been worn for years, and the three piece suit (jacket, corset, and jeans) in look 18 is hand-painted denim. Their faded florals appear later on a couple of floaty semi-sheer dresses. The overall impression here was one of lightness. Pretty antidotes for a heavy time.
