If there’s a season for designers Mark Badgley and James Mischka to shine, it would be resort: the duo always excel at creating sprightly vacation wear. “It sums up what we love: color, fantasy, and exotic prints,” says Badgley, while Mischka adds that this season was “about making clothes that our customers really want.”
With getaways or destination weddings in mind, the pair landed on Fauvism as an initial inspiration for their new designs. They were drawn to the punchy colors and intense brushwork found that characterized the movement of the early 1900s, thanks to artists like Henri Matisse. “The colors inspired our palettes and our print directions,” says Badgley. They transferred this upbeat color palette onto their signature assortment of cocktail and gala dresses in materials like georgette and chiffon, all of which are ready for grand summer bashes.
A multicolour foliage-printed gown was a standout. “With Fauvism, we loved the idea that a flower doesn’t really look like a flower,” says Mischka of the print. With a strapless neckline and flounces of ruffles along the sides, it’s the kind of dress that makes a party entrance. “We were thinking of guests of weddings on the beach,” says Badgley. It’s so good it could turn attention away from the bride—though, there was something for brides as well, such as the the white one-shouldered dress with an oversized flower sculpted onto the shoulder. “Imagine it with a killer chandelier earring,” says Badgley. Also in bridal territory? A strapless white jumpsuit, with a draped bodice and buttoned front. “It’s our version of a tuxedo jumpsuit,” says Badgley.
For the past few seasons, the pair have also been making big attempts to streamline and minimize some of their more ornate embellishments, and this was apparent for resort. The clean, caped knee-length day dresses—in orange-red or cream—were designed for the ladies who lunch. “It’s dramatic from the waist-up,” says Badgley. For evening, they also designed a buttoned-up coat dress in fuchsia, with a touch of crystal on the sleeve cuffs. “You don’t really have to wear anything with it,” says Badgley. “It’s simple, but it’s powerful.” He called it very “Jackie O,” but given its pink, Mischka had another reference in mind: “It’s very Jennifer Coolidge in White Lotus.”
