As weather patterns change and retail rules are rewritten by an international clientele, the old ideas about seasons seem to no longer apply. With its prolonged shelf life, Resort requires designers to create looks that can be worn all year round, a concept Josie Natori embraced. After skipping the pre-collections last year, the designer filled her latest offering with fail-safe pieces that married classic touches and splashy prints with an easygoing sensibility that allowed for a few surprises. Ornate details were added to utilitarian items, like a rain slicker with a hood covered in embroidered flowers, and dark denim was amped up by the addition of graphic designs along the side seams. Dressed down is not Natori’s forte, but in recent years she’s successfully adapted casual staples to suit her aesthetic. Here, she had fun playing with the codes of athleticwear, adding volume to bomber jackets to create sculptural shapes, providing souped-up versions of sweatshirts, and generally ignoring the idea that comfortable has to mean sloppy.
Of course it wouldn’t be a Natori collection without her signatures. Lingerie wasn’t the focus, but as always she infused the category’s romanticism into her wares. Breezy maxi dresses with color-blocked prints were covered in soft pink brushstrokes, while mesh draped separates showed a hint of skin via their transparency. Even workwear got an ultra-feminine update with ruffles making their way onto formfitting day dresses and jumpsuits.
