Carolina Herrera is not a fan of seasonal themes; she’s never found them necessary. Asked to share a few words about Pre-Fall, she said, “It’s about tailoring for day, and very glamorous evenings. That’s what we need, so that’s what this collection is about.” A basic principle, certainly, but it didn’t result in basic clothes. Herrera’s skirtsuit this season came in ivory with black jasmine blooms. Pinstripes, meanwhile, got a feminine touch courtesy of a peplum jacket complete with raw edges. And we all know how much she loves a bold sleeve. Her white shirts were as dramatic as ever, inset with handmade lace or blossoming south of the elbow into grand bells.
As for evening, it was as glamorous as she promised, with feathers on a little cocktail frock and jet beads decorating the bandeau back of a ball gown, but the news was in her after-dark separates. A woman could wear Herrera’s lace-trimmed neoprene sweatshirt paired with a narrow, floor-length skirt to all manner of galas but retain a welcome sense of ease. The collection’s indisputable knockout was a high-neck, long-sleeved, floor-length dress in a delicate jasmine print that looked utterly demure until you saw the back, which was bare. It would be an unusual choice for a Golden Globe nominee, but that shouldn’t stop one of them from wearing it next month.
